Our Tech Tips are now located at http://blog.pitpromx.com.

05/15/11

Brake Fluid:

Brake fluid could be the most overlooked fluid in your bike. Make sure you are flushing the brakes at least once a year. Brake fluid will break down over time, absorb water and get spongy, get little air bubbles and just get dirty. Make sure you use some kind of vacuum assist tool, it is not really effective to just pump and bleed it like a car.



04/07/11

Baby Powder:

Baby powder is for more than your butt. Try using talcum powder (baby powder) inside your tire to help when assembling the wheel and to help from getting flats. The powder will let the tube move around a little and separate from the tire so it will not bind and rip. Also, it will help from having the tube chafe and wear through. It smells good too and I like it.



03/15/11

Mini Bikes:

For all you mini bike dads out there, read this and stop getting flats on mini bike wheels. Most problems with mini bike flats are caused by low air pressure, the average tire will lose 1 pound a day. So, on a three day weekend your tire can go from 15 pounds to 12 pounds. Ride on this and you can spin the tube and rip out the valve stem. The fix is to use your bicycle pump everyday and fill your tires. And make sure while you're checking the air pressure to touch your spokes and see if they're loose.



02/25/11

How to Adjust Your Valves:

02/06/11

Swing Arm Maintenance:

Lately it seems like we've had a rash of stuck swing arm adjuster bolts - what is going on? It's easy and needs to be done at least once a year. Water gets into the swing arm through the chain slider screws and corrodes the bolts on the inside. When you have the wheel off just pull the adjusters all the way out and use a good anti-seize. Do this so we don't have to cut them out next year.

04/21/10

How to Change a Tire:

Recommended Tools:

1. A Barrel or Tire Stand.  Take a 15 gallon oil can and cut off the top. It’s a lot easier to change tires off the ground.


2. Tire spoons: For dirt bike tires a spoon end works the best.  The spoon end tends to cut fewer tubes and does not slip as bad.  We recommend at least three spoons.  For really stiff or old tires one really long spoon is nice.


3. Bead buddy: It helps to keep the tire from pulling up as you are putting the tire on. For a cold tire this is a must have, this could be the best tool ever!!!


4. Tire tamer: It holds the tire open as you slip in the tube. This saves fingers.


5. Valve core remover: Any style will work as long as it is made of metal.


6. Soap and water: A good spray bottle will work fine.

      First, let all the air out of the tire and loosen the rim lock.  Do not completely remove the nut. Break the bead by standing on the tire disc side up, only do one side.

      Next, start near the rim lock and put in two tire spoons. Pull both toward you.  Use the third spoon by putting it about an inch away from one of the other tire spoons and pull. Now just use the other spoons to switch and pull. The trick for this is to make sure the tire stays down inside the bead, and to constantly push down on the part of the tire you are not trying to pull up with the tire spoons.


      Now that this side of the tire is up, you can pull the tube out.  This is a good idea if you are working on a 12” or smaller tire. But if you have a bigger tire, it’s not really necessary to take the tube.  Flip over the tire and pull off the other bead using the same technique. The second side is a lot easier.  

       Next, put the tire on the ground and push out the rim. Use your foot and only do it on the sprocket side, you could bend the disc.  Pull the tube out of the old tire if you haven’t done so yet. With the tire out, check the rim, make sure the rim lock is ok. Then check the rim band.  


      Lube up one side of the tire only with the water and soap mixture. Drop the rim into the new tire with the disc side first.  Start using the tire spoons to pull on the tire. Use tire spoons about one inch apart to start pulling on the tire. Once one side is on, it’s time to put the tube in. Use the tire tamer to pull up on the tire and slide in the valve stem. Only put in a couple inches of tube at this time. Use a nut to hold on the valve stem, and leave it loose. Now stuff in the tube and make sure it’s straight.  Some people use baby powder to let the tube slide in easier and allow it to move around when it is all done.  This is not a bad idea, but not necessary.   

      Next, put in your bead buddy using two tire spoons.  Make sure to always start near the rim lock.  Start pulling the tire on one inch at a time working away from the bead buddy. As you go you will need to put slack in the tire by pushing down on the part that is already under the rim.  Once the second side is on, lube up the wheel and air it up. This is when you will find out if you popped the tube.   

Good luck and practice. The only way to get good is to do a bunch of tires.

04/16/10

How to Install Grips:

Recommended Tools: razor blade, grip glue, contact cleaner, paper towel, duct tape, safety wire, and safety wire pliers.

       First, remove the old grip by using the razor blade. Then clean off the throttle tube and bar of all the old glue by scraping with the razor blade. Use a paper towel and contact cleaner to remove any contaminates. This is also a good time to clean the throttle tube and to lube the cables. 

       With the throttle reassembled on the bar, use the duct tape to seal the end of the throttle tube so that glue cannot enter. Put a small hole in the grips so that air can escape when you slide the grips on.  Put a generous amount of grip glue on the inside of the grip and a small amount on the top of the handle bar. Then quickly slide the grip on the bar. Pay close attention to how you want the grip to end up because some of the glues work quickly, making them hard to move later. Clean off any excess glue and wait. Repeat steps on the other grip.  Check your throttle in a little bit and make sure you didn’t get any glue in it. If you did manage to get some glue in it then take it off and let it dry overnight. Clean out all the dried glue and make sure your throttle is perfect.

       Safety wiring grips is not necessary, but nothing is worse than a loose grip. Start by cutting a small piece of safety wire just long enough to wrap around the grip once.  You can wire the grip as many times as you would like, but two per grip is usually enough.  Make sure to keep it evenly spaced.  The proper placement of where you twist the safety wire is at the 5 o’clock position of the grip (almost on the underside of the grip).  Wrap it around once over the grip. Grab it with safety wire pliers, or locking pliers, and twist. It takes some practice to get it tight enough not to spin and not too tight that it breaks. Cut the wire about 2mm from the grip and tuck it into the grip so it won’t stab you.  

01/20/10

New Tips:

       After a lot of testing, we have now dialed in the new 2010 Yamaha YZ 250F. We've got the suspension working better than we thought it could. Now, with an exhaust and our carb modifications it runs better than ever. We are able to get the bogg out of the bike when it lands. Let us know if you need help or have questions, we are currently working on all the new 2010 bikes.

12/09/09

About Suspensions:

       At Pit Pro MX we feel suspensions can be as simple or complicated as you want them to be. There are some basic things that can change the way your bike handles and work that much better if done. But if you have already done the basics, and want a little bit more, we can help with that too.

The Basics
SPRINGS          OIL          SET UP
Springs: When we say “springs,” we mean having the right springs to support your weight and to work in the riding that you do. We never get tired of saying, “each bike is designed around a certain riders weight and riding style.” It will work well if you fit in these categories. If you do not fit into these categories, by being either too light or too heavy, your bike will not work the way it’s supposed to. You may need springs -- fork and shock springs, pressure springs, and high speed shock springs.

       For example, an ‘07 CRF450R is designed around a 170lb intermediate track rider, but the owner of the bike is 200lb novice track rider. He complains that the suspension is too stiff in the bumps and bottoms out in the jumps. He needs stiffer springs. Stiffer springs will allow him to ride in the softest part of the fork, which is the fist few inches of the stroke, instead of sitting too low and being in the stiffer mid-stroke. Also, stiffer springs will cause him to not bottom out on the track, since the forks can now support his weight. This is just a very general example given to express how important springs are to overall suspension.

Oil: While springs support the weight, the oil does all the work. It is the oil that goes through the valving that sets how suspension will do its job. But if the oil is full of contaminates -- dirt, metal, or old soupy oil -- the bike will ride very rough and can also seem very soft. Customers often comment that after the oil is changed, the bike feels new and plush. It does not matter what else you do, you need to be riding a bike with fresh oil in the suspension, just like fresh oil in your motor.

Set up: This is a general area that includes having the right sag for a particular bike and rider, having the right fork height in the triple clamps, and just having the clickers set correctly. If you have the right springs, fresh oil, but have the sag too tight, the bike will seem stiff in the shock and too soft in the fork. The bike will dive in the corners but seem squirrelly in the straight-aways. This is not a confidence inspiring ride. We can help you get this bike dialed in.

       These are the basic components to suspension. We are happy to talk to you about this and help get your bike dialed in. It does not matter if you are a hardcore MX racer or a weekend desert rider, we can help.

       Still, there is always more, this is the fun stuff. It starts with revalving. This means to change the original shims to make the bike handle a certain way in a certain situation. Revalving is exciting and is the next level in setting up suspension. It takes hours of testing and lots of trial and error to find out what works. If done properly, this is where some of the biggest gains can be made. We pride ourselves in tuning suspensions to work for each customer that we serve.

       And it does not end here. We have all kinds of trick parts that can enhance the way your suspension works. We have everything from high volume bladders and caps, oil lock collars, all metal free pistons, heavy duty shock bumpers, lowering spacer, speed bleeders, and all the coatings you can imagine. Some of these parts might help you, and some of these would just look great. We would be happy to help you figure out what you need and what you want.

Fork/Shock service $95.00 (labor only) Includes complete disassembly, inspection of all wear parts, reassembly with new seals, resetting clickers and sag.

Re-valve $165.00(labor only) Includes fork/shock service, plus revalve of suspension to riders weight/’ability/ and ridding style. Plus installation of any special parts.



11/23/09

How to Wash a Bike:

      Cleaning a bike is one of the most important and basic maintenance tasks for your bike. A clean bike is a good bike. Cleaning is when you will notice small maintenance issues and the start of big ones. Dirt will stain and be hard to remove if you do not clean regularly. Race bikes are cleaned often which is why they always look good. Also, mechanics prefer clean bikes because they are easier to work with, so be nice to your mechanic!

- You will need the following supplies to wash your bike.

            - Degreaser (EX Maxima Clean Up or Simple Green)
            - Hose or a pressure washer
            - Scrub brush
            - Soap, bucket, and sponge/rag.
            - Towels for drying
            - Finishing spray (EX Maxima SC1 or Motul Spray & Shine)
            - Chain Lube
            - Duct tape
            - Wash plug
            - Stand

- Place bike on stand making sure that both wheels are off the ground.

- Install wash plug into end of exhaust or use duct tape to seal off exhaust.

- Use duct tape to seal airbox vent. This helps to keep water out of the air filter and carburetor.

- Wet bike with hose or pressure washer. Try to avoid direct hits to the wheel bearings and the steering stem bearings. It only takes a little bit of water to rust the bearings.

- Next, spray degreaser all over bike paying special attention to the chain and any muddy areas.

- Use a scrub brush to clean off the chain, wheels, and under the fenders.

- Fill bucket with soap and water. Use sponge or rag to scrub off the bike.

- Spray bike with hose or pressure washer until it is clean. Make sure all of the degreaser is rinsed off; it can stain if it is left on the bike.

- Dry of bike with towel to remove water spots.

- Use finishing spray on the bike. Avoid spraying on grips, seat, and brake rotors.

- As you spin the rear wheel, spray the chain with chain lube to prevent rust from forming.

- Remove wash plug and duct tape from the bike and now you have a clean bike.

11/16/09

How to Drain Oil:

- Wash bike first.

- Begin by warming up the bike to a normal operating temperature.

- Next, clean off the areas surrounding the drain bolt(s) and the oil filler plug.

- Place a container underneath the bike to catch oil.

- Remove the drain bolt; oil will pour into the container. Remove the oil filler plug to help speed the draining of the oil.

- Repeat if you have more than one drain bolt.

- Clean off the drain bolt(s) and washer(s). Inspect the washers closely; replace if they are deformed or scratched.

- Clean the drain hole(s) and surrounding area. If dirt gets between the washer and the case it can cause a leak.

- Reinstall drain bolt(s) and washer(s) to proper torque supplied by the manufacturer.

- Remove and replace the oil filter. Be aware of how the oil filter came out and put it back the same way and direction when installing the new filter. If it has a spring make sure it fits correctly.

- Pour in the new oil using quality motorcycle specific oil. Use manufacturer spec for the correct amount of oil.

- Start the bike and warm it up. Check the oil level with manufacturer spec, through the window, with the dip stick, or a chuck bolt.

11/04/09

How to Install a Clutch:

- Wash bike (good work starts with a clean bike!)

- Pre-oil friction discs in a Ziploc bag with motor oil that will be used later in run of bike.

- Warm up bike and drain oil.

- Remove or pin down the rear brake pedal (it is sometimes possible to wedge something over the pedal to keep it out of the way, e.g. a screwdriver).

- Remove clutch cover; keep track of bolts and where they go.

- Remove clutch bolts and springs.

- Slowly remove the pressure plate. Watch out for bearings and washers falling out.

- Remove the complete clutch pack. Observe the orientation of the plates and discs.

- Check inner hub and outer basket for wear marks; they should be smooth where the clutch plates touch. If they are grooved, replace.

- Install new clutch. Some friction plates are different sizes; often there are different first and last plates.

- Metal plates go in sharp side out for better bite on MX bikes or sharp side towards the motor for a smoother clutch on trail or desert bikes.

- Always use new clutch springs to help your clutch last longer (remember, they wear out too!).

- Install clutch cover with right bolts, torque to manufacturer spec.

- Add oil to bike, start and check oil.

- Adjust clutch cable to manufacturer spec. 1/4" or more play in the cable is normal. As the clutch heats up it will expand, so a properly adjusted cable will make the clutch last longer.